Susques: Into the Puna, Toward Chile
Susques is a small Puna town at 3,675m, about 200km from San Salvador de Jujuy, sitting on RN52 as the road climbs on toward the Paso de Jama border crossing into Chile. It's a genuinely remote place — the landscape around it is high-altitude desert, wide open and sparsely populated, dotted with llama and vicuña herds rather than the terraced farming of the lower Quebrada.
The town's main sight is the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Belén, a small 17th-century adobe church with a cactus-wood roof, one of the oldest and best-preserved colonial churches in the region. Beyond that, Susques functions mostly as a practical stop: the last real town with services before the long, high, empty stretch of road up to the Chilean border, and a common overnight stop for travelers heading that way or returning from Salinas Grandes.
Getting there
About 200km from San Salvador de Jujuy via RN9 to Purmamarca then RN52 across Salinas Grandes, roughly 3.5-4.5hr by car depending on conditions. There's limited public transport this far into the Puna — most independent travelers drive, and most others arrange transport through a tour operator, especially if continuing on to the Paso de Jama. The road is paved for most of the route by this point but conditions can vary at altitude, particularly in winter with occasional ice or snow.
Route: RN 9 + RN 52
When to go
The Puna is dry and clear most of the year, with the same December-March summer rain pattern as the rest of the province, though rainfall here is generally lighter than in the Quebrada. Winter (June-August) brings genuinely cold conditions — freezing nights are standard at this altitude, and snow is possible on the higher stretches of road. Whatever the season, temperature swings between day and night are extreme here — pack for both.
Altitude
At 3,675m, Susques is higher than Salinas Grandes and firmly in serious-altitude territory. If you've been acclimatizing through the Quebrada and Salinas Grandes on the way here, you're better positioned than someone arriving fresh, but altitude sickness remains a real risk for anyone. Overnighting here rather than pushing straight on to higher ground — like the Jama pass, which climbs past 4,000m — is the safer approach if you have any symptoms at all.
Practical notes
- Services are limited — fuel up, get cash, and stock up on anything you need before heading further toward the Chilean border, as options thin out fast beyond Susques.
- Cell signal is patchy in town and largely absent on the roads in either direction.
- The church has visiting hours tied to local schedules rather than tourist demand — check locally rather than assuming it's open.
- Nights are cold year-round at this altitude; pack proper warm layers even if you're traveling in summer.
- If you're continuing to Chile via Paso de Jama, confirm current border requirements and hours in advance — this is a genuinely remote crossing with limited facilities.
Frequently asked questions
Is Susques worth stopping at, or just a place to pass through?
It's worth at least a short stop for the adobe church and to feel the shift into true Puna landscape, but most travelers treat it as a waypoint rather than a multi-night destination.
How far is Susques from the Chilean border?
The Paso de Jama crossing is still a substantial further drive up into higher altitude — this is a long, remote route, and travelers should plan for a full day of driving with limited services along the way.
Do I need special permits to cross into Chile via Paso de Jama?
No special permit beyond standard passport and vehicle documentation is typically needed for tourists, but requirements and hours change — check with Argentine and Chilean border authorities before you go, not once you're on the road.